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Will Green Remain the New Black? Dynamics in the Self-Categorization of Ethical Fashion Designers
Bleibt Grün das neue Schwarz? Veränderungen in der Selbstkategorisierung von Ethical Fashion Designern
[journal article]
Abstract Research on categorization and category dynamics has been rather silent on the role of powerful third parties in the self-categorization of producers. This study sheds light on this question by analyzing dynamics in the self-categorization of designers in the British ethical fashion movement. Their ... view more
Research on categorization and category dynamics has been rather silent on the role of powerful third parties in the self-categorization of producers. This study sheds light on this question by analyzing dynamics in the self-categorization of designers in the British ethical fashion movement. Their task of self-categorization is particularly complex in a context in which conflicts between aesthetics, morality and the economy still persist. Most of them enter the field as activists. Over time, however, designers stress their moral ideals less in their self-categorization, but put more emphasis on business-related values. Some even switch their self-identities from that of activists or moralists towards identifying as entrepreneurs. In this article, I argue that the designers’ dependency relations to a powerful audience member allow us to better understand these dynamics in self-categorization.... view less
Keywords
environmental consciousness; fashion; self-image; sustainability; product; category; identity; value-orientation; morality; ethics
Classification
Sociology of Economics
Free Keywords
category dynamics; self-categorization; self-identity; power; moral market; framing
Document language
English
Publication Year
2017
Page/Pages
p. 211-237
Journal
Historical Social Research, 42 (2017) 1
Issue topic
Markets and Classifications: Categorizations and Valuations as Social Processes Structuring Markets
DOI
https://doi.org/10.12759/hsr.42.2017.1.211-237
ISSN
0172-6404
Status
Published Version; peer reviewed